Let It Rain

It hasn’t rained in Ubud for at least a couple of weeks or more. But in the middle of last … More

A Joyous Temple Birthday

Shortly before 5 this morning, I was awakened to the sounds of roosters, men’s voices, women singing softly and the … More

Galungan Redux

It’s 11:11 am as I begin to write. An auspicious time on an auspicious day. After close to 18 hours’ … More

In Praise of Metal

Yesterday, the ceremony of Tumpek Landep was celebrated all around Bali; a holiday dedicated to Sanghvang Pasupati, the god of … More

Mother of All Ceremonies

Another day, another ceremony on the island of the gods. Today the Balinese gather at temples to celebrate Pagerwesi – … More

101 Uses for a Dead Pig

I’m really not a pig-pilgrim. I don’t seek out pigs, don’t eat them, don’t play with them, don’t find them … More

Almost Last Rites

During a break from a wedding ceremony in Mas yesterday, we went to the main temple, where preparations have been … More

The Greatest Show on Earth

… is not the circus (nor the film). Neither is it Las Vegas, Disneyland, the Big Dipper or Northern Lights. … More

Wayan’s Way

Early this morning, shortly after breakfast, I set out on a pilgrimage. I was headed to a temple, but not … More