In Praise of Metal

Yesterday, the ceremony of Tumpek Landep was celebrated all around Bali; a holiday dedicated to Sanghvang Pasupati, the god of … More

The Penatahan Diaries – Part I

I just returned to Ubud after spending the past five days living in a house on a hill, deeply immersed … More

The Asian Umbrella Tax

They don’t tell you about it when you sign up for a tour, purchase an air ticket and visa, or … More

Mother of All Ceremonies

Another day, another ceremony on the island of the gods. Today the Balinese gather at temples to celebrate Pagerwesi – … More

101 Uses for a Dead Pig

I’m really not a pig-pilgrim. I don’t seek out pigs, don’t eat them, don’t play with them, don’t find them … More

Skyquakes, Dedalus & Other Unexpected Shifts

Since my return from Singapore, a series of tectonic shifts in my inner and outer landscape have shaken me up … More

Living in Limbo

It’s been a little over two weeks since I moved into a relatively new and still-unnamed place owned and run … More

Nine Days in Singapore

The flight from Bali to Singapore takes only slightly more than two hours. There is no time difference hopping from … More

Almost Last Rites

During a break from a wedding ceremony in Mas yesterday, we went to the main temple, where preparations have been … More

Sleeping Beauty

Once upon a time, in a compound just south of Ubud, lived a family of woodcarvers – not at all … More