Sleeping Beauty

Once upon a time, in a compound just south of Ubud, lived a family of woodcarvers – not at all … More

The Six-Month Itch

After the shock and awe of this week’s (apparently) epic tremor dissipated, I realized that the earth’s rumblings have been … More

The Color Purple

It all began innocently enough when I asked Shoko to introduce me to her hairdresser. I’d wanted just to lighten … More

An Auspicious Anniversary

A couple of days ago, in the middle of a massage, memories of last year surged through my mind and … More

A Question of Living

Once in awhile I’m asked this question: are you traveling or living in Bali? It’s a question that puzzles me … More

Uncommon Carriers

On my way back from yoga earlier today, I walked behind this woman for nearly 10 minutes. I couldn’t take … More

The Penjors Have It

Celebrations and fireworks are getting under way half a world away. But here in Ubud, blessedly, there’s not a single … More

Cock-a-Doodle Days

The roosters of Tebesaya are at it again. But there’s something different in the air today; it’s the first morning … More

A Nice Day for Rice

It says so right here in my pocket Balinese calendar:  June 23rd is an auspicious day for putting rice into … More

Full Moon Catastrophe Living

There was a full moon last night, a lunar eclipse – and I got my period. The moon was full-on, … More