My Haj to Hay

Deep in the heart of rural Lombok, far from where tourists tread, past dozens of mosques and minarets, passing rice … More

Ibu Robin & Baby’s Angels

I just finished reading a novel called Butterfly People. The author, Robin Lim (known as Ibu Robin to locals), is … More

Tough Love

Imagine if all our angels were sweet and gentle, constantly showering us with words of comfort, love and wisdom. Imagine … More

The Color Purple

It all began innocently enough when I asked Shoko to introduce me to her hairdresser. I’d wanted just to lighten … More

An Auspicious Anniversary

A couple of days ago, in the middle of a massage, memories of last year surged through my mind and … More

Oh-la-la Odalan!

I was ready to call it a night last evening, when I heard Nyoman call up at me from below: … More

Off Limits. Verboten. Period.

All across the island, Balinese are today celebrating Kuningan, the holiday that takes place ten days after Galungan. This last … More

Dead Gecko Diary

Another writing circle, another opportunity to exercise those Balinized brain muscles. You just need to show up, sit down (or … More

The Penjors Have It

Celebrations and fireworks are getting under way half a world away. But here in Ubud, blessedly, there’s not a single … More

Under My Nose

Like many people who come to Ubud for a short while and then decide to stay longer, I’ve been trying … More