Quebec a Kutuh

The banjar (hamlet) where I live – Kutuh Kaja – is full of colourful characters; tattooed fathers ferrying their helmetless … More

Why My Masseuse Went AWOL

A couple of months ago, Wayan (my longtime masseuse) mentioned – in passing – that the people of her banjar … More

The Buda of Dunggulan

No, I haven’t misspelled the Buddha’s name. And no, I’m not referring to anything related to the renowned multi-outlet restaurant … More

A Southern Odyssey

There is joy in small things. Even here in Bali. Especially if you live in Ubud – and find yourself … More

Kuda in the Compound

Even I must admit that the tiny banjar (hamlet) of Timbul, a half-hour’s drive up to the highlands and rice … More

Dog Day Afternoon

His name is Peter. He’s a dog, a Bali dog. Black and white, a little strange-looking if you ask me. … More

How To Keep A Home & Heart Ticking

The after-effects of a whirlwind visit back to my hometown took their toll, still in the process of winding down … More

The Season Formerly Known as Spring

Finally, blessedly, thankfully… it happens. The long-awaited big thaw. Before you know it, spring descends on the city with a … More

The Great White (6) North

It happens while I’m watching a Chinese acupuncturist pull needles out of my dad’s arms: My phone rings. It takes … More

The Silence of the Snow

I woke this morning with a wave of melancholy washing over me. It wasn’t so much because of the arctic … More